American Express--The offices at Damrak 66 (tel. 020/504-7777; tram: 4, 9, 14, 16, 24, 25) and Van Baerlestraat 39 (tel. 020/673-8550; tram: 2, 3, 5, 12), are open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm, and Saturday from 9am to noon. The Damrak office provides currency exchange and books tours; the Van Baerlestraat office only books tours.

ATM Networks--Among the centrally located automated teller machines (ATMs) accessible by cards linked to the Cirrus and Plus networks, and the major credit cards and charge cards, are those at ABN-AMRO Bank, Dam 2 (tram: 4, 9, 14, 16, 24, 25) and Leidsestraat 1 (tram: 1, 2, 5), at Leidseplein; Rabobank, Dam 16 (tram: 4, 9, 14, 16, 24, 25); and Fortis Bank, Singel 548 (tram: 4, 9, 14, 16, 24, 25), at the Flower Market.

Babysitters--Many hotels can arrange babysitters. A reliable local organization is Oppascentrale Kriterion (tel. 020/624/5848), which has vetted babysitters over 18. Its rates are 5€ to 6€ an hour, with extra charges for administration, Friday and Saturday evening bookings, and for hotels.

Business Hours Banks--are open Monday through Friday from 9am to 4 or 5pm, and some to 7pm on Thursday. Open hours for offices are Monday through Friday from 9 or 10am to 4 or 5pm. Regular shopping hours are Monday from 10 or 11am to 6pm; Tuesday, Wednesday, and Friday from 9am to 6pm; Thursday from 9am to 9pm; Saturday from 9am to 5pm; and some stores are open Sunday from noon to 5pm.

Convention Center RAI Convention Center,--Europaplein (tel. 020/549-1212; Metro: RAI), in the south of the city. Events include the Home Interiors Fair, the Dutch Art and Antiques Fair, the Love & Marriage Fair, the Car Show, and (this being Holland) the Bike Show.

Currency Exchange--The best options for changing money are the VVV tourist offices, banks, and, if you carry American Express traveler's checks, American Express . Other fair-dealing options are Thomas Cook, Damrak 125 (tel. 020/620-3236; tram: 4, 9, 14, 16, 29, 24, 25), Dam 23-25 (tel. 020/625-0922; tram: 4, 9, 14, 16, 29, 24, 25), and Leidseplein 31A (tel. 020/626-7000; tram: 1, 2, 5, 6, 7, 10); and the Grenswisselkantoor (GWK) exchanges at Schiphol Airport (tel. 020/653-5121), Centraal Station (tel. 020/627-2731), and at some international border crossings and main train stations. These organizations can provide cash advances for holders of American Express, Diners Club, MasterCard, and Visa credit and charge cards. GWK can arrange money transfers through Western Union.

Hotels and bureaux de change (currency-exchange offices), which are open regular hours plus evenings and weekends, often charge a low commission (or none at all) but may give a low exchange rate--always know exactly how much you are going to get in your hand before agreeing to the transaction.

There are clusters of banks, such as ABN-AMRO, Rabobank, Fortis, and NMB, around the Dam, the Flower Market, and at Leidseplein.

Dentists--Call the Central Medical Service (tel. 020/592-3434).

Doctors--Call the Central Medical Service (tel. 020/592-3434).

Drugstores--For such items as toothpaste, deodorant, and razor blades, go to a drogerij (drugstore), or a supermarket. See also "Pharmacies," below.

Electricity--Before you weigh down your luggage with all your favorite appliances, note that the Netherlands runs on 220 volts electricity (North America uses 110 volts). So you need to take with you a small voltage transformer (available in drug and appliance stores and by mail order) that plugs into the round-holed European electrical outlet and converts the Dutch voltage from 220 volts down to 110 volts for any small appliance up to 1,500 watts. Don't try to plug an American appliance directly into a European outlet without a transformer; you may ruin your appliance and possibly even start a fire. Some American appliances (such as some electric shavers) are engineered to operate on either 110 volts or 220 volts, but even with these you usually need to buy a plug adapter for Dutch outlets.

Embassies & Consulates--The U.S. Consulate in Amsterdam is at Museumplein 19 (tel. 020/575-5309; tram: 3, 5, 12, 16), open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to noon and 1:30 to 3:30pm; the U.S. Embassy in The Hague is at Lange Voorhout 102 (tel. 070/310-9209). The U.K. Consulate-General in Amsterdam is at Koningslaan 44 (tel. 020/676-4343; tram: 2), open Monday through Friday from 9am to noon and 2 to 4pm; the U.K. Embassy in The Hague is at Lange Voorhout 10 (tel. 070/364-5800).

Citizens of other English-speaking countries should contact their embassies in The Hague. Australia: Carnegielaan 14 (tel. 070/310-8200); Canada: Sophialaan 7, Den Haag (tel. 070/311-1600); Ireland: Dr. Kuyperstraat 9, Den Haag (tel. 070/363-0993); New Zealand: Mauritskade 25, Den Haag (tel. 070/346-9324).

Emergencies--For police assistance, an ambulance, or the fire department, call tel. 112.

Holidays--January 1 (New Year's Day); Good Friday; Easter Monday; April 30 (Queen's Day/Koninginnedag); Ascension Day; Pentecost Monday; December 25 (Christmas) and 26. The dates for Easter, Ascension, and Pentecost change each year.

Hospitals--Two hospitals with an emergency service are the Onze Lieve Vrouwe Gasthuis, Eerste Oosterparkstraat 179 (tel. 020/599-9111; tram: 3, 7, 10), in Amsterdam Oost; and the giant Academisch Medisch Centrum (AMC), Meibergdreef 9 (tel. 020/566-3333; Metro: Holendrecht), in Amsterdam Zuidoost.

Hot Lines--Rape and sexual abuse: De Eerste Lijn (tel. 020/612-7576); drugs: Drug Prevention Center (tel. 020/626-7176).

Internet Access--In the center, easyEverything (www.easyeverything.com) has two locations: Damrak 33 (tel. 020/320-8082; tram: 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 13, 16, 17, 24, 25); and Reguliersbreestraat 22 (tel. 020/320-6291; tram: 4, 9, 14). Both are open 24 hours a day and access begins at 1.15€. A less-crowded choice is Internet Café, Martelaarsgracht 11 (tel. 020/627-1052; info@internetcafe.nl; tram: 1, 2, 5, 13, 17), open Sunday through Thursday from 9am to 1am, Friday and Saturday from 9am to 3am; access is 2.75€ an hour.

Language--Dutch people speak Dutch, of course, but English is the second language of the Netherlands and it is taught in the schools from the early grades, with the result that nearly everyone speaks fluently. You may speak English in Amsterdam almost as freely as you do at home, particularly to anyone in the business of providing tourist services, whether cab driver, hotel receptionist, waitperson, or store assistant.

Mail--Postage for a postcard or ordinary letter to the U.S., Canada, Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa is .75€; to the U.K. and Ireland it's .45€.

Narcotics--The use of narcotic drugs is officially illegal in the Netherlands, but Amsterdam allows the sale in licensed premises of up to 5 grams (.2 oz.) of hashish or marijuana for personal consumption, and possession of 30 grams (1.2 oz) for personal use. Not every local authority in the Netherlands is as liberal-minded as Amsterdam when it comes to smoking pot--and Amsterdam is not so tolerant that you should just light up on the street, in cafes, and on trams and trains (though enough dopey people do). The possession and use of hard drugs like heroin, cocaine, and ecstasy is an offense, and the police have swept most of the downtown heroin-shooting galleries away from the tourist centers, but even in these cases the drug abusers are considered a medical and social problem rather than purely as a law-enforcement issue. On the other hand, peddling drugs is a serious offense.

Newspapers & Magazines--You can get the main British and Irish daily newspapers, the International Herald Tribune, Wall Street Journal Europe, and USA Today, along with Time, Newsweek, U.S. News & World Report, Business Week, Fortune, The Economist, and more from the American Book Center, Kalverstraat 185 (tel. 020/625-5537; tram: 4, 9, 14, 16, 24, 25), and Waterstone's, Kalverstraat 152 (tel. 020/638-3821; tram: 4, 9, 14, 16, 24, 25). Newsstands at Schiphol Airport and Centraal Station also have a big choice in international newspapers and magazines.

Pharmacies--For both prescription and non-prescription medicines, you go to an apotheek (pharmacy). Try Dam Apotheek at Damstraat 2 (tel. 020/624-4331; tram: 4, 9, 14, 16, 24, 25). All pharmacies have the name and address of an all-night and Sunday pharmacy posted on the door.

Police--Holland's emergency number to call for the police (politie), fire department, and ambulance is tel. 112. For routine matters, police headquarters are at Elandsgracht 117 (tel. 0900/8844; tram: 7, 10, 17).

Post Office--Most post offices are open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm. The post office at Singel 250-256, at the corner of Raadhuisstraat (tel. 020/556-3311; tram: 13, 14, 17), is open Monday through Friday from 9am to 6pm (to 8pm Thurs), and Saturday from 9am to 3pm. To mail a large package, go to the post office at Oosterdokskade 3, a large building on the right as you face Centraal Station.

Salons--In addition to beauty salons and barbershops in many major hotels, stylish hairdressers are to be found on Pieter Cornelisz Hooftstraat and on Rokin. George en Leon, Leidsegracht 104 (tel. 020/626-3831; tram: 7, 10), and the Hair en Beauty Center, Rokin 140-142 (tel. 020/623-2381; tram: 4, 9, 14, 16, 24, 25), are smooth performers. For something a little (or a lot) out of the ordinary, try Hair Police, Kerkstraat 113 (tel. 020/420-5841; tram: 16, 25, 25).

Taxes--There's a value-added tax (BTW) of 6% on hotel and restaurant bills (19% on beer, wine, and liquor), and 6% or 19% (the amount depends on the product) on purchases. This tax is always included in the price. People resident outside the European Union can shop tax-free in Amsterdam. Shops that offer tax-free shopping advertise with a Holland Tax-Free Shopping sign in the window, and they provide you with the form you need to recover value-added tax (VAT) when you leave the European Union. Refunds are available only when you spend more than 137€ in a store.

Telephones--To call Amsterdam: If you're calling Amsterdam from the United States:

1. Dial the international access code: 011

2. Dial the country code for the Netherlands: 31

3. Dial the area code 20 and then the number. So the whole number you'd dial would be 011-31-20-000-0000.

To make international calls: To make international calls from Amsterdam, first dial 00 and then the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64). Next you dial the area code and number. For example, if you wanted to call the British Embassy in Washington, D.C., you would dial 00-1-202-588-7800. For operator assistance: To make an international collect call, dial tel. 0800/0410. To call collect inside Holland, dial tel. 0800/0101 (or press the "Collect" button if the phone you're using has one).

Toll-free numbers: Numbers beginning with 0800 within Holland are toll-free, but calling a 1-800 number in the States from Holland is not toll-free. In fact, it costs the same as an overseas call.

Special numbers: Watch out for the special Dutch numbers that begin with 0900. Calls to these are charged at a far higher rate than ordinary local calls. Depending who you call, they are from .25€ to .90€ a minute.

To call the United States or Canada, dial 00 (the international access code) + 1 (the country code) + the area code + the number. Other country codes are: Australia, 61; United Kingdom, 44; Ireland, 353; New Zealand, 64.

International calls, per minute, are: U.S. and Canada: .30€; U.K. and Ireland: .25€; Australia and New Zealand: .40€. You can use pay phones in booths all around town with a KPN telekaart (phone card), selling for 5€, 13€, and 25€ from post offices, train ticket counters, and newsstands. Some pay phones take coins, of .05€, .10€, .20€, .50€, and 1€. Use smaller coins whenever possible, at least until you are connected with the right person, as no change is given from an individual coin and once the call has begun, excess coins will not be returned when you hang up. Should there be no answer, hang up and the coin comes back to you. On both card and coin phones, a digital reading tracks your decreasing deposit so you know when to add another card or more coins. To make additional calls when you still have a coin or card inserted, briefly break the connection, and you will get a new dial tone for another call.

The area code for Amsterdam is 020. When making local calls in Amsterdam you won't need to use the area codes shown in this book. You do need to use an area code between towns and cities. The two main formats for Dutch phone numbers are for cities and large towns a three-digit area code followed by a seven-digit number, and for small towns and villages a four-digit area code followed by a six-digit number.

In the Dutch telephone system, there's a sustained dial tone, and a beep-beep sound for a busy signal. Both local and long-distance calls from a pay phone are .25€ a minute. Calls placed through your hotel switchboard or dialed direct from your room phone are usually more than twice the standard rate.

To speak with an operator, call tel. 0800. For information inside Holland, call tel. 0900/8008; for international information, call tel. 0900/8418; for international collect calls, call tel. 0900/0410.

To charge a call to your calling card, call AT&T (tel. 0800/022-9111); MCI (tel. 0800/022-9122); Sprint (tel. 0800/022-9119); Canada Direct (tel. 0800/022-9116); British Telecom (tel. 0800/022-9944).

Time Zone--Holland is on Central European time (CET), which is Greenwich mean time (GMT) plus 1 hour. Amsterdam is normally 6 hours ahead of New York City time and 9 hours ahead of Los Angeles time.

Tipping--The Dutch government requires that all taxes and service charges be included in the published prices of hotels, restaurants, cafes, discos, nightclubs, beauty salons/barbershops and hairdressers, and sightseeing companies. Even taxi fare includes taxes and a standard 15% tip. To be absolutely sure in a restaurant, for example, that tax and service are included, look for the words inclusief BTW en service (BTW is the abbreviation for the Dutch words that mean value-added tax), or ask the waiter. The Dutch are so accustomed to having these charges included that many restaurants have stopped spelling it out.

Dutch waitpersons appreciate tips and rely on them to supplement their salary. To tip as the Dutch do, in a cafe or snack bar leave some small change; in a restaurant, leave 1€ to 2€, and up to a generous 5€ if you think the service was particularly good; for expensive tabs, you may want to leave more--or maybe less! An informal survey (I asked a taxi driver) reveals that Americans and British are the best tippers; the worst are the Dutch themselves.

Toilets--Maybe you better sit down for this one. The most important thing to remember about public toilets in Amsterdam--apart from calling them toiletten (twa-lett-en) or "the WC" (vay say) and not restrooms or comfort stations--is not the usual male/female distinction (important though that is) but to pay the person who sits at the entrance. He or she has a saucer where you put your money. If you don't, you might have a visitor in the inner sanctum while you're transacting your business. Even if you have paid, in busy places the attendant may have forgotten your face by the time you emerge and will then pursue you out of the toilet and along the street. It's tiresome, but toilets usually costs only about .1€.

If you have a toilet emergency in the Center, the very best address to find relief is the Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky. Just breeze in as if you own the "Kras," swing left past the front desk and along the corridor, past the Winter Garden restaurant, then up a short flight of stairs. Marble washbasins and what look to be gold-plated faucets are among the wonders therein.

Transit Info--For information regarding tram, bus, Metro, and train services, call tel. 0900/9292.

Useful Phone Numbers--Lost Property: Call tel. 020/560-5858 for tram, bus, and Metro; tel. 020/557-8544 for trains and stations; and tel. 020/649-1433 for Schiphol Airport. Don't be optimistic about your chances. There are plenty of honest Amsterdammers, but they're generally out of town when you lose something.

U.S. Dept. of State Travel Advisory tel. 202/647-5225 (manned 24 hr.). U.S. Passport Agency tel. 202/647-0518. U.S. Centers for Disease Control International Traveler's Hot Line: tel. 404/332-4559.

See also the phone numbers for embassies and consulates, above.

Water--The water from the faucet in Amsterdam is safe to drink. Many people drink bottled mineral water, called generically spa even though it's not all from the Belgian Spa brand.